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 GROW YOUR OWN 07 / 02 / 08
 

Sowing early in February

London allotment gardener, Michael Rand, throws caution to the wind to sow early in February

'My preference is to push it a bit and sow indoors 10 weeks in advance, i.e. from the middle of February for a late-April planting.'

'Resistance is a relative concept and one about as useful as saying the SS Titanic was built – which it was – to be resistant to icebergs.'


Michael Rand
There must be people out there – somewhere – who positively relish the perils of winter. Eskimos come to mind. Not commonly counted among such supremely hardy types are we gardeners, who, like our favourite plants, tend to fall dormant when the thermometer drops below 10 degrees C (50 degrees F). At the moment, then, we're mostly waiting for the weather to perk up and when it does, no doubt, so shall we.

Having said as much, there's no need to spend the whole of February in a doze because (with apologies for the horrible pun) this is the month to steal a march. Outdoors may yet be frigid, but indoors it's already seed-sowing time.


Why bother?
You may well ask: why bother sowing stuff inside? What's the point of dropping damp potting compost all over your best carpet when, within a few short weeks, the fine weather will come around again anyway? Valid questions, indeed.

A long answer would cover pages, so I'll stick with a fairly short one. It's late blight – the dreaded Phytopthera infestans, which all tomato-growing enthusiasts reading this will already know, and hate.


Late blight
Late Blight is a murdering fungus, which does the deadly deed by invading the vascular system of its victims. Working its woe from the inside out makes it a ferociously fast and efficient killer of tomato and potato plants alike. Blight spores spread best in warm, damp weather, with mid-to-late autumn providing ideal conditions, according to many written accounts.

This may be true in general, but in my experience – on an allotment site where pests and diseases don't have far to travel – blight often strikes far earlier. Mid-August is normal. In such circumstances, you can just about get away with spuds, since they don't exactly ripen but simply get bigger, so you'll still get something even at this early stage of the harvest season. Not so with tomatoes, where you'll be very fortunate to have anything ripe, before wipe-out.

Once late blight arrives, there's nothing you can do. Various sprays available are prophylactic, i.e. they work by prevention. But it wouldn't be wise to rely on these alone, or on seed types advertised as *'blight resistant'; resistance being a relative concept and one about as useful, in this case, as saying the SS Titanic was built – which it was – to be resistant to icebergs. Thus, it's worth doing an indoor sowing, on the grounds that the sooner a tomato seed germinates, the sooner it will mature. Hopefully, before the blight arrives.


Sow for a late-April planting
The normal rule of thumb, which many readers will be familiar with, is to count back eight weeks from setting-out time, and sow then. My own preference is to push it a bit and sow indoors 10 weeks in advance, i.e. from the middle of February for a late-April planting. With me, this just about avoids the last frosts. Local adjustments are obviously required for warmer or cooler areas.

A windowsill that gets plenty of light, situated in a room as cool as possible is the best combination. Tomato seeds don't seem to have much bother germinating at coolish temperatures. If you can supply an extra light source, using grow lamps or similar, so much the better.

Early sowing, indoors or out, is ever a hazardous business, fraught with peril, and with success by no means guaranteed. But then, we shouldn't let those Eskimos have all the February fun, should we?

(NB: *'Blight-proof', as opposed to 'resistant', presumably awaits the attention of genetic modifiers, and it doesn't take much to imagine the row that'll break out in gardens up and down the land if they ever succeed!


About the author
Michael Rand tends an allotment in North London and is the author of Close to the Veg: a book of allotment tales, price £10.99, published by Marlin Press.




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Discuss this article, 1 of 7 messages, read more:
Badger 
Posted: 04/03/07 15:20:02 02
So being bored in February and not wanting to let the Eskimo's have all the fun, I got going with 40 carrots and 40 lettuces in the greenhouse in seed trays the type with cells.
Thinking that with the carrots I would be able to plant them straight out knowing that I had good germinated seed and not have to guess how they were doing or where they where.
I was really pleased when nearly all the seed came up in a matter of days transplanted the Lettuce into 3" pots and left them in the green house. It was then that I realised it was still to cold to plant out the tender carrot seedlings: but they needed room to grow and probably wouldn't behave too favourably with a second transplanting let alone a first.
So having read about the newspaper ...
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